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New Zealand's New World Women
06.03.26
•9 min read
The Journal.
Curated by Melanie Brown, Chef Sommelier & Founder of The Laundry
Melanie Brown is a Kiwi chef sommelier and founder of The Laundry in Brixton. We here at ETO have loved following Mel's journey, as both restaurateur and passionate champion of New Zealand wine. So when it came to our Southern Hemisphere series, we couldn't think of a better guide to share their expertise.
We asked Mel to curate a collection of five of New Zealand's female wine makers, in an exclusive collaboration with ETO. All of these women are at the top of their game and preside over iconic vineyards - charismatic cheerleaders worth cheering about. And all five are united by a creative connection to their land; one that goes beyond the Sauvignon Blanc box, through the cellar door, and into a wide new world of New Zealand wine.
New Zealand is such a special place, I could talk about it until the cows come home!" Mel says. "But I think the really important factor is this idea of spirit and place, and how our environment and people manage to convey something really special.
"Our mana, they say, is kind of like our spirit. Our love of the land, our environment. How we speak, and how that evolves into how we grow grapes. How we work with each other in a way that's mindful, and full of integrity.
“When you look at the solidarity within the New Zealand wine industry, there is so much resourcefulness that comes from sharing and caring. Vineyards sharing resources, stats and data; for example, how they use frost protection - and how that has evolved the New Zealand wine industry to a point of consistent quality.
“For me, New Zealand wine speaks of place so dramatically, more than anywhere else in the world. What really excites me is this overwhelming sense of quality that New Zealand will never relinquish. Year after year, new varietals are coming to market.
There's a new sense of integrity and respect for the land. And you can see that by the amount of certified organic producers that are within our remit. It's being able to look beyond Sauvignon Blanc, and looking at how Chardonnay rivals the best of white Burgundy. It's just this overwhelming sense of quality and charisma."
Charisma is the word - Mel's enthusiasm for her compatriots' craft is highly infectious. “There's a sense of integrity and skill that comes with vineyards that have been iconic, prolific, and pioneering in the New Zealand wine industry,” says Mel. “All five of these producers resonate in that way for me. They're always staying on top of their game. They're always producing wines that are exceptional. There is no compromise - on quality, on vivaciousness, and how they extend the New Zealand wine conversation.”
1. Helen Masters, winemaker at Ata Rangi, Martinborough
“I can hand on heart say that Ata Rangi chardonnay seduced me to study my diploma!" Mel says. "As soon as I tasted their chardonnay about 16 years ago, I knew that I wanted to be in this industry."
What ‘makes’ Ata Rangi wines?
“It starts in the vineyard," Helen Masters says. "Care, dedication, and a close understanding of the land guide what we do. Then in the winery, it’s about attention to detail and a light hand. Underpinning it all is a strong sense of identity and place. Our events are a highlight for us. We love opening the gates and sharing this place with people. There’s something special about tasting a wine right where it’s grown, you can nearly feel the landscape in it.”
Ata Rangi is 80% run by women. Is that a conscious decision?
“Not consciously, no. It’s simply how things have evolved over time. We’ve always focused on choosing the best person for the role. The strength of our team comes from shared values, commitment and capability, and we’re proud of the people who shape Ata Rangi today.”
You create a wide selection of wines for a small vineyard. Which of your wines would you decant into an ETO and enjoy over several days?
“Decanting can be a fantastic way to let our newer wines breathe and show their character, particularly in their first five years. We’ve been crafting world-class Pinot Noir for over 40 years, and it’s very much part of our DNA. Over time, these wines age beautifully, but when they’re young, a quality decanter can really make a difference. It can be a wonderful tool, especially for younger Pinot Noir, helping the wine open gradually while preserving its integrity over several days. It can allow the complex aromas to emerge.”
Which food would you recommend with it?
“Right now, my garden is full of tomatoes and eggplants, so I’d suggest a slow-cooked lamb ragout with eggplant and tomato, and a thick slice of sourdough with butter. It feels soulful and generous, and a natural partner to our Pinot Noir.”
2. Jen Parr, winemaker at Valli Winery, Central Otago
Jen was born in the USA, but now calls New Zealand home. “New Zealand is a beautiful, relatively unpopulated country with diverse wine regions (I have worked in 5 of them)," she says. "Each wine region has its own signature. People here are open, inclusive, innovative, and determined. I have really enjoyed making wine in other countries, but I have a greater connection to New Zealand and feel I have a license to be more adventurous here.”
If visiting New Zealand for the first time, what should you experience?
“A visit to Otago should include a few days in NZ’s adventure capital, Queenstown. A mecca for hiking, mountain biking and skiing. There are great bars and restaurants in Queenstown and a real buzz at night. A day trip to Milford Sound, or an overnight on the Doubtful Sound, are easy to access from here. And Glenorchy is worth the drive for the beautiful scenery and walking opportunities. Wanaka is worth a few nights, with great craft beer and restaurants (and great wine of course!) Ideal for hiking, mountain biking, lake / river activities or skiing - plus taking in the incredible scenery. I highly recommend a couple of days in the Waitaki Valley, with a stop at the Valli Wine Bar in Kurow and a night or two in Oamaru, where you can see penguins and go back in time experiencing the Victorian era vibe.”
You said you’d decant into one ETO wine decanter, a Valli Gibbston Pinot Noir, and in the other ETO, decant the Valli Bannockburn Pinot Noir. Tell us more about these wines and what you’d pair with them.
“These are both beautiful wines, expressing the nuance of two of the most distinctive growing areas in Central Otago. Gibbston is the epitome of perfume and fragrance, with fine tannins and spice. Lamb is a no-brainer for Otago Pinot Noir, but I personally love duck or salmon with Gibbston Pinot Noir. Bannockburn is sexy, with silky tannins, dark red fruit and savoury spice, perfect with venison.”
3. Rosie Finn, Global Neudorf Cheerleader at Neudorf Vineyards, Nelson.
“Set in the Moutere Hills, the cellar door was actually designed and built by founders Tim and Judy Finn," says Mel Brown, on Neudorf Vineyards. "The vineyards just expand all the way around this beautiful cellar door, and the family home is 20 yards away from the winery. Rosie Finn is the marketing genius spreading the wider story of Nelson wine.
What makes Neudorf wines distinctly Neudorf?
“Restraint," Rosie Finn states. "Natural restraint, in the climate - Nelson gets long sunshine, but it's not too hot. Restraint in the winery - we leave the wines to do the talking. We’re organic and the winery is run on solar power, so the less we can do the better. We really want to celebrate the site, so we try and not interfere too much.”
And which of your wines would you decant, serve and preserve in ETO?
“Rosie’s Block Moutere Chardonnay - it never fails me. A couple of years back, a friend and sommelier described this wine as “the Gucci slippers” of our Chardonnay portfolio. Luxurious, smooth, and quietly confident. Recently, someone else described it as a dress of European cut, made with New Zealand material. Rosie’s Block Moutere Chardonnay is our little black dress. Always in style.”
4. Jules Taylor, owner and winemaker at Jules Taylor Wines, Marlborough
Marlborough as a wine-growing region is a bit of a Cinderella story, isn't it?
“Marlborough is so different now," says Jules Taylor. "Growing up here, our landscape was so diverse. Lots of sheep, market gardening... Wine was not part of our everyday lives. A fair portion of the land wasn’t very productive, and grapes have certainly changed that. It’s probably not surprising, but around 70% of our production is Sauvignon Blanc. We also make Chardonnay (Marlborough’s best-kept secret!), Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Rose and Grüner Veltliner."
You say “wine should be more about creating great memories.” This resonates with what we believe at ETO - it’s about the enjoyment of wine, sharing your favourite wine again & again. Which of your wines would you decant into ETO and enjoy over a few days?
Ohhhh, that’s a tough question! I love to open a bottle with friends, so it would probably be the end of the second bottle that needs preserving! What would we taste and would it develop? I guess it depends on the wine. The Grüner Veltliner has lovely fresh herbal notes along with some tropical peach and persimmon characters, as well as smoky, spicy notes from the wild fermented portion. I would imagine the ETO decanter would maintain the full spread of aromas and flavours in this wine, for the next time you open it. And I'd pair with it a lovely piece of salmon with miso/soy/lime juice/rice wine glaze. Baked in a hot oven, and topped with heaps of fresh coriander, chilli, spring onion, and toasted sesame seeds when done. This is delicious the next day too!
5. Anna Flowerday, TWR, Marlborough
Te Whare Ra (TWR) is a Māori name meaning ‘house in the sun’. The smallest and oldest winery in Marlborough is run by husband & wife winemakers Anna & Jason Flowerday. Mel Brown vividly describes visiting the cellar door: “It's just salt of the earth... they have this amazing, yet very basic barn, and you walk up these stairs to the tasting room, which looks out over their vineyards, right in the middle of the Wairau Valley.”
Mel tasted for ETO, their SV Toru, which means ‘three’ in Māori. It’s made up of 3 varietals - Gewürztraminer, Riesling, and Pinot Gris. “It's a really aromatic version," Mel says. "You want to be eating something relatively spicy with this! You've got those lovely nuances of lychee and rose petals that the Gewürztraminer gives you. The Riesling's got that backbone of acid that we know and love. And the Pinot Gris kind of gives the weight and texture to that wine. And all three of those marry together to produce a really flamboyant white wine.
"The fun thing about that one is it's not blended, post-wine. It's actually co-fermented. So all the grapes just go into the fermentation process. Works well alongside a hint of spice and sweetness, like a pad Thai, fantastic.”
New Zealand's new horizons...
Finally, we asked Mel Brown and Jen Parr what the future of winemaking in New Zealand looks like. And what does it hold for women entering winemaking today?
“Often, opportunity is created, not given," Jen Parr says, "and I don’t think that is a gender thing, but maybe women must ask for a chance more often than men do. Maybe that is changing... There are serious challenges for the wine industry, full stop (climate, a change in drinking culture, the economy, etc.), but I don’t think that impinges on opportunities for women.
"It isn’t exclusively a female trait, but the women winemakers I know are incredible multitaskers, juggling work, family, community, fitness and time for personal fulfilment. Women are also adept at supporting each other and helping mentor the next generation. There will always be women who are instrumental in making our industry shine - not overshadowing it, but shining a light for all who seek it.”
“New Zealand has big goals for organic wine over the next 5 years," Mel says. "Several of the wineries I’ve chosen to highlight above are already certified organic. The little guys, the artisan producers, they're all such small producers, compared to the grand scales of what we see at the supermarkets over here. So it's about finding regions and varietals that are outside your comfort zone, and from places that you never knew existed in New Zealand.”
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